Laurie and I spent about four weeks in Europe playing tourists with a group of friends. It included over a week on a Viking River cruise from Switzerland to France—interrupted by low water on the Rhine—and time in Paris and Lourdes at Airbnbs with another couple and on our own. Then, a few days on the northern coast of Spain that included viewing an almost (99.6%) total eclipse.
Now, we are at “work” on the Camino de Santiago.
Last April we took a three-day course in California to learn to be hospitaleros at Albergues in Spain—serving as the hosts at hostels used by pilgrims hiking across Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Because we have received a number of questions about the gig, I thought it might be fun to describe our experience in a Q&A format:
Q: What is your “Albergue” like?
A: Ours is in the small village of La Virgen del Camino, just west of the metropolis of Leon. The town owns the albergue which has two dormitories that each accommodate pilgrims (men and women) in bunk beds—up to 20 in each dorm. It also has a kitchen and good-sized living space for relaxing after a long day. There are separate bathrooms for men and women. Fortunately for us, we have a private room (where the snoring is limited to me) with a private bathroom.
Q: What is a normal day like for you “managing” this facility.
A: We wake up at 6:00 AM so I can unlock the front door and start coffee—which is a local brand, not Starbucks. The pilgrims get up, pack and many join us for breakfast which we laid out the night before. It is simple—pastries, bread, and yogurt. After some interesting conversations our guests (are supposed to be) out the door by 7:30 at which point we start the laundry and clean the whole place. The first day took us a couple of hours when there were only three pilgrims. This morning was three plus hours as we had 17 residents last night. The sheets and other laundry took three loads. After cleanup, we go shopping for food and cleaning supplies.
We do have some free time for lunch and relaxing before the doors open again at 2:00. Then, Laurie registers each pilgrim as they show up—welcoming them with a cold drink and slice of watermelon. It has been hot so both are popular. She then issues a sheet and pillowcase, and I give them a tour and show them to the co-ed dormitory. They’ll spend time cleaning up, hand washing clothes, and relaxing—including napping.
In the evening one of us takes interested pilgrims to a service at the local basilica. There are great conversations, along with shared food and beverages. Lights are out and we lock the doors at 10:00 PM
Our pilgrims ages have ranged from 21-71. They come from Spain, Italy, France, Hungary, Portugal, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Germany, Belgium, Brazil, Denmark, the Netherlands, and USA. Last night we had a young Franciscan monk from Croatia. Most come on foot—but three have been cyclists.
Q: How many pilgrims each night?
A: The first night we were here, being trained by the previous hospitaleros, there were only three. The next day was our first solo day and we had nine. Last night there were 17–rather overwhelming!
Q: How much does it cost and how much of that do you get to keep?
A: It is strictly “donativo”—by donation. We are averaging just over 10 euros per pilgrim. And, we keep nothing as we are donating our time and personal expenses. It is a fantastic way for us to give back to the Camino community, which has given us so much over the last decade.
Q: What’s next for you?
A: We do this until 31 August and then head to the French Pyrenees where we start the Camino ourselves—repeating the first one we did back in 2016.
Other Questions?
Feel free to ask them in the comments. We will answer them as we have time, which will depend on how many pilgrims walk through the door each day.
Re-doing the Camino Frances ! How wonderful. Will be keen to hear your impressions on what’s the same and what’s changed since we all did that one 10 years ago.
When I was a kid and a grandma‘s if it rained, she hung her sheets down in the basement. Now, do you have a basement or an attic to dry sheets if it rains.
I’ll bet you the hot weather and you got those sheets dried in in a couple hours if not more less bless you guys
Mom/Jonie
Electricity is expensive here so people usually hang dry their laundry outdoors or on indoor racks.
The Albergue has a dryer we can use or we can put smaller items on a rack in the common area. There’s a big kitchen/dining and seating area
Hello, Dennis and Laurie,
This was most interesting and I appreciated you explaining details and showing pictures.
I will forward this to our club membership so they can understand what all you do now and then,
besides walking through the world together when you can.
Thanks, David
It is fun sharing our adventures. And hopefully we inspire people to go on their own within their abilities.
Great adventures! Hope the temperature cools down for rest of season.
Thank you for sharing
It has been hot—but looks like it will be cooling off. Unfortunately that comes with rain. So far all our pilgrims have avoided showers.
WOW! super interesting and impressive.
Hard work but some really interesting people and fascinating stories.