At Home in Cornwall

Our introduction to Cornwall was mainly through the television series, Doc Martin and Poldark. While Poldark is set in the late 1700s Doc Martin is a modern day production and presents an idyllic view of this region. It inspired Trev to plan a trip centered here with a focus on hiking the Southwest Coast Path that follows the shoreline of this region.

What is Cornwall and what do we feel makes it unique? Cornwall is a county on the southwestern tip of England. It was an independent kingdom with Celtic roots that was annexed in the ninth century to greater England. It has maintained a distinct character and some signs appear in the Cornish dialect. Mining, especially tin, was a big part of the economy for centuries which made the landscape very industrial. See our previous post about a visit to a tin mine.

Nowadays it is noted more for:

Beaches. The white, sandy beaches along the shoreline look like they could be at home in Australia or Hawaii. Surfers, walkers, and dogs are common users. It is not what I expected in England.

Local Treats. Pasties, or handheld meat pies, are tasty and common. They make a great lunch or dinner. As I mentioned in a previous post, they are pronounced to rhyme with past, not paste, to avoid confusing them with an infamous wardrobe malfunction.

Cornish scones are a great treat as well, although there is a debate as to whether you put the jam on first before the clotted cream—a buttery like cream. Evidently, Devon, the next county over is populated by Philistines who put clotted cream on before jam. Here, it is jam first. Many battles have been fought in this part of the country, but I don’t believe arms have been taken up on this subject. At one cafe I made the cream first error; I was told all is forgiven if I just turned the scone over.

Certain Phrases. We’ve noted two words the Cornish see to be fond of: Lovely and Proper. Proper refers to something done right or in a satisfactory manner. It is common to see it on signs or products. I even enjoy a local beer called Proper Job IPA.

Lovely is really the word that stands out. Where we might use descriptive words like, “great” or “cool” in this region everything is “lovely.” An instant coffee pack even has “Freeze dried loveliness” printed on it—quite a stretch to describe any freeze dried product. When Laurie asked a store about their opening hours, they responded, “Tomorrow from 10:00 to 4:30, Lovely.” Much better than Ma’am.”

Dogs and People. The people are friendly and love their dogs. I wish we had more dog pictures but have focused more on petting them. The well behaved dogs even come into many bars and restaurants, when they aren’t racing up and down the beach. People have been helpful, as in the case where Trev’s bike chain broke. When we got on a crowded bus, a pair of teens quickly got up to give us our seats. I’m sure they were compelled to do so by my gray hair, not by the youthful appearance of Lovely Laurie. Although, I’m really not at the point where I like kids giving up their seats for me, if you know what I mean.

If you’re looking into options for a future trip, check out the TV series Doc Martin and you’ll understand why we were attracted to the area. Make a proper decision and explore Cornwall. You’ll find it…lovely.